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Giboshi on Sanjo Ohashi bridge, photo by Suizan Kurokawa, owned by Kyoto City Library of Historical Documents
Giboshi on Sanjo Ohashi bridge, photo by Suizan Kurokawa, owned by Kyoto City Library of Historical Documents
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Giboshi of Sanjo Ohashi Bridge

This photo shows a glass dry plate taken by Suizan Kurokawa, which is in the collection of the Kyoto City Library of Historical Documents, showing a giboshi on the Sanjo Ohashi Bridge.


Suizan Kurokawa (1882-1944) was a photographer from Kyoto who was active from the Meiji to Showa periods. He was oriented toward artistic photography, and his photographs of everyday landscapes and townscapes are few; instead, he often photographed shrines and temples, as well as famous scenic spots such as shrines, Mt. FUji and Arashiyama.


The Sanjo Ohashi Bridge was built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi in 1590, and the inscription on the giboshi, which is also clearly photographed, is inscribed on the bridge. It reads in a nutshell, “The bridges of Sanjo in Kyoto will be an aid to the pedestrians in later generations.”


The foundation stone is firmly in the ground, with sixty-three stone pillars. It was the first bridge in Japan to use stone pillars, and was built by Nagamori Mashita, a retainer of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, in the first month of 1590.

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Hasegawa Shoju-do

Since its establishment in 1919, Hasegawa Shoju-do has specialized in colored paper, tanzaku, and Japanese paper crafts using traditional Kyoto techniques. They offer a variety of washi products such as kinpu (envelops to offer money in), Japanese calligraphy paper, and yuzen paper, which are perfect for seasonal greetings and gifts.


It was established on Rokkaku Dori, but moved to its current location on Sanjo Dori in 1936, and until 1965, there they confirmed the course of the procession of Gion Matsuri.


The current building, which won the Kyoto City Urban Landscape Award, is a contemporary structure rebuilt in 2005. The horizontal lines of the “Ichimonji tiles”, openings with motifs of lattice doors and fine-meshed windows, dynamic overhanging eaves, and other elements were adapted to the scale of the building, showing the consideration for the townscape.


Although the building is a six-story structure, the stories higher than the 3rd floor are invisible from the street, blocked by eaves, which design is recommended in Kyoto. Furthermore, the front design is based on an attachment to the original building; while modern materials are used, it reproduces the streetscape with traditional storefronts and serves as a guideline for the formation of the town street landscape.


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1928 Building

Among the historical buildings on Kyoto's Sanjo Dori, the 1928 Building, constructed in 1928, deserves special mention.


Designed by Goichi Takeda, also known as the father of the Kansai architecture, the building is characterized by a style based on the Art Deco, characterized by geometric lines and patterned design, while incorporating eclectic elements such as the Lombardy strip and horizontal louver windows influenced by the 20th-century architectural master, FL Wright. The star shape seen on the windows is derived from the Mainichi Newspaper's corporate emblem.


The history of Sanjo Dori since the Meiji era is deeply related to the background of this building's construction.


During the Edo period, the Sanjo Ohashi Bridge was the terminus of the Tokaido Highway, but the actual terminus was near Sanjo Higashinotoin, and it flourished as a hub of logistics and information connecting Kyoto and Osaka. In the Meiji period, banks, telephone stations, new openings, and stores were constructed, with the brick Western style incorporated, in place of horse and carriage companies, and Sanjo Dori developed as Kyoto's main street.


In 1872, the Saikyo Densokyoku was built, and in the same year, the Shusho Company and later a library established by Kyoto Prefecture were built. 1874 saw the relocation of the Saikyo Densokyoku to Sanjo Higashinotoin and the opening of the Saikyo branch of the First National Bank of Kobe in Sanjo Karasuma. The Takehara Bank and the Kyoto branch of the Osaka Asahi Shimbun newspaper followed, establishing Sanjo Dori as a center of information, finance, and commerce.


In the 20th century, the Kyoto branch of the Bank of Japan and the Dai-ichi Bank were built, the Kyoto YMCA was constructed in 1909, the Nishimura Trading Company Building was completed in 1920, the Kyoto branch of Man-Nen-Sha was built in 1925, and the 1928 Building was completed in 1928 by Goichi Takeda as the Kyoto branch of the Mainichi Newspaper.


These historic buildings, including the 1928 Building, are important elements of the current streetscape of Kyoto's Sanjo Dori.


These buildings stand side by side on Sanjo Dori, Kyoto's main street, as symbols of civilization's opening to the outside world, and tell the story of Kyoto's unique historical background.

(left) Star-shaped window and Lombardy strip / (center) Art Deco lighting embedded in columns / (right) Horizontal louvers across windows

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Heian Museum of Ancient History at the time of its opening in 1968, owned by THE PALEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF JAPAN
Heian Museum of Ancient History at the time of its opening in 1968, owned by THE PALEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF JAPAN
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Heian Museum of Ancient History


Heian Museum of Ancient History, Room 1, Showa era, owned by THE PALEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF JAPAN

Heian Museum of Ancient History, the Central Hall, Showa era, owned by THE PALEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF JAPAN

The Heian Museum of Ancient History is a research museum established by THE PALEOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF JAPAN Inc. The museum opened in 1968, and for about 20 years, it developed museum activities on the very distinctive theme of Heian culture.


This institute has made great achievements in archaeological excavations in Japan and abroad, mainly at the site of Heian-kyo, and in the collection and investigation of many important historical materials, including "The Tale of Genji" and "Shichijo-reikai” (Legal document isssued by the then higher court).


The museum has also held public lectures and courses, as well as a number of social education programs, including a full-scale replica of Seiryoden (a dwelling for Emperors) which was installed in the museum and used as a stage for classical cultural restoration events.


In Kyoto, the Heian Museum of Ancient History was the first museum registered under the Museum Law.


Today, many of the materials exhibited and researched at the museum have been taken over by The Museum of Kyoto, and the building is used for multiple purposes as The Museum of Kyoto Annex.

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Kita-kannon-yama parading on Sanjo Dori in 1954, Collection of Taichi Kinugawa
Kita-kannon-yama parading on Sanjo Dori in 1954, Collection of Taichi Kinugawa
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Yamaboko procession at Gon Masuri on Sanjo Dori in 1954

Many people are gathered on the street and in front of the building, and rightly so. The photo was taken on July 24, the day of the Yamaboko procession in Atomatsuri of Gion Matsuri

Sanjo Dori before Yamaboko Procession, perhaps in 1954, Collection of Taichi Kinugawa

In this photo, you can see the Kita-kannon-yama float parading in front of the red brick building of the Bank of Japan, Kyoto Branch (now The Museum of Kyoto Annex). Until 1965, Sanjo Dori was part of the route of the Yamaboko Procession.


The area was also known for its concentration of many financial institutions. In 1947, the Bank of Tokyo took over the Kyoto branch of the Yokohama Specie Bank, which was transferred to the Bank of Kyoto in July 1954.


The Bank of Tokyo sign in this photo suggests that this was the period just prior to the transfer.

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Yamaboko procession at Gon Masuri on Sanjo Dori in 1954

Also, past the Bank of Japan and heading east on Sanjo Dori, you will find Hasegawa Shoju-do, a famous washi paper products store.


In front of this store, the route of the Atomatsuri procession was determined. A desk and a chair covered with white cloth were set up for the mayor of Kyoto to act as the bugyo (commissioner). In those days, it was also customary to throw chimaki (Japanese glutinous rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves, traditionally eaten during festivals) from the Yamaboko floats to spectators, who could receive them from the second floor of this store as well.

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Reconstructed Takayama in 2022 (Photo taken: July 24, 2023)
Reconstructed Takayama in 2022 (Photo taken: July 24, 2023)
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Present-day Gion Matsuri

Gion Matsuri is a traditional festival representing Kyoto with a long history that has undergone many changes up to the present day. The dates of the festival were changed after the adoption of the solar calendar by the new government in the Meiji era, and in 1877, the dates were fixed to July 17 and 24. It is known as one of the three major festivals in Kyoto, and has become nationally known through its publication in newspapers and magazines.


Gion Matsuri’s Yamaboko procession also underwent changes in the modern era: in 1912, Shijo Dori was widened for the running of streetcars, and in 1923, the Yamaboko Federation was organized. However, due to the Pacific War from 1943 to 1947, the Yamaboko procession was forced to be canceled. After the war ended in 1953, the Yamaboko procession was resumed, and the floats that had burned down were restored one after another.


Starting with Kikusui-hoko, Ayakasa-hoko, Toroyama, and Shijo-hoko were restored, and in the Heisei era, Ofune-hoko was revived. The restoration of these floats became an important project to pass on the traditions of Gion Matsuril to the next generation.


Social changes in the latter half of the 20th century also affected Gion Matsuri. 1966 saw a major change in the festival, when Sakimatsuri and Atomatsuri were merged, and the Yamaboko procession of Atomatsuri was integrated into Sakimatsuri. The ritual of cutting the sacred straw rope was added to the Naginata-hoko floats that led the procession, and the floats were wheeled and pulled. The Hanagasa procession began on the 24th, adding a new element to the festival.


Since the beginning of the 21st century, there has been a movement to revive Gion Matsuri in the revival of tradition and new community development. The revival of Atomatsuri, in particular, has become an event that symbolizes a new development of the festival. These efforts have solidified the status of Gion Matsuri as not just an annual event, but as an important festival that symbolizes the culture and history of Kyoto.

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Sanjo Arimoto Building

The Sanjo Arimoto Building is a modern structure located on the historic Sanjo Dori in the heart of Kyoto City. The continuous arches and rough-hewn concrete finish show respect for the Western-style architecture of Sanjo Dori, even though the building itself is a modern structure. In particular, the two-story high arcade creates a visual effect that cuts dynamically through the streetscape.


Founded in 1886, Arimoto Shoten built a new three-story Western-style building on this site in 1920, featuring a modern-Western, Art Deco style design with mirrors in the show windows. However, the building was destroyed by fire in 1968. This event was a great loss for the community, but fortunately, a new three-story steel-frame store was constructed in 1968, marking the beginning of a new history. The new store had a large front yard with grass and an open, modern appearance.


Later, in 1989, more significant changes came. The building was rebuilt into a five-story tenant building with a large arched passageway to the second floor and a parking lot along Sanjo Dori. The new building was selected for the second Kyoto Cityscape Award for its modern design and architectural style that pays homage to the historical landscape of Sanjo Street.


Today, the Sanjo Arimoto Building has apparel stores, eyeglass stores, and jazz clubs as tenants, and continues to make its presence felt as a building that preserves tradition and culture, not just buildings.

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